Twilight Over Dinosaur National Monument

The moon shines over the last light of day just outside of Dinosaur National Monument, Colorado. (Mike Cavaroc)
The moon shines over the last light of day just outside of Dinosaur National Monument, Colorado.

Note: This is a minimally processed photo. I’m on my laptop so the final version may or may not change in terms of processing once I’m back home.

I was expecting to camp out in Dinosaur National Monument on my first night out. Failing to check up on the weather though, I was greeted to the Visitor’s Center closed down for the season and warnings outside of it that the road to the only campground from that point is impassible if it gets wet at all. It was a clear day, but I know how quickly that can change. Despite waking up to a clear sky the following morning, I opted to play it safe and camped on BLM land literally right off of the highway heading into Dinosaur National Monument, which is technically part of the monument.

With my road trip focusing primarily on the southwest, I didn’t want to spend a whole lot of time in northern Colorado anyway. Thus, I found a site just 10 or 15 minutes from the main highway so that I could be on my way once I awoke. In seeing southern Wyoming and northern Colorado again, I realized I’m going to have to make that whole area its own road trip.

I’m currently in Cortez, Colorado on a work day taking care of a few things. In addition to Dinosaur National Monument (sort of), I’ve also stopped at Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park as well as Mesa Verde National Park. I hadn’t been to Black Canyon before, and it was definitely a great surprise and a beautiful sight to see, though the photography unfortunately won’t reflect it. I was struggling that day so I don’t think I got the shots I was hoping for. My next blog post will most likely be on Mesa Verde though. I really enjoyed my time there.

Another nice surprise early in the trip was seeing wildlife bridges being built between Bondurant and Pinedale, Wyoming. It’s a huge deer and pronghorn area and to see roughly ten wildlife bridges going up in that area really made my day.

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Teton Changes – Video of Fall in Grand Teton National Park


A video compilation of fall landscapes and wildlife in and around Jackson Hole, WY and Grand Teton National Park.

I’ll be leaving on a road trip soon and before I left, I wanted to get all my fall video compiled together into one video. While I didn’t get to use all the clips I wanted to, I still thought that it came out nicely.

The song I used, by Epic Soul Factory, was perfect until it hit a bit of a change of mood. I didn’t have enough clips to account for the short, dark section, so I had to edit the song just a bit so it would fit what I was trying to do. For that, I apologize to the original artist.

Regardless, this should give you a little glimpse into the area in the fall season. Wildlife comes out more in preparation for the winter, as fall leaves rest below snow-capped peaks all across the valley. All the clips are from Grand Teton National Park and the National Elk Refuge.

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Bull Moose at Autumn Oxbow Bend

A bull moose eats from Oxbow Bend as he is reflected with fall colors in the water in Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming. (Mike Cavaroc)
A bull moose eats from Oxbow Bend as he’s reflected with fall colors in the water in Grand Teton National Park.

With the falls colors fading, wildlife is beginning to pop back out as animals prepare for the winter in their own respective way. A bull moose has been hanging around Oxbow Bend for much of the summer and came out into the water recently for some great reflections with the remaining fall colors. There were a few from this series, but I thought this shot captured the scene best.

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Fall Colors and the Moose-Wilson Road Controversy

Fall leaves decorate aspen trees and hawthorne bushes along Moose-Wilson Road in Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming. (Mike Cavaroc)
Fall leaves decorate aspen trees and hawthorn bushes along Moose-Wilson Road in Grand Teton National Park.

Yesterday, the Moose-Wilson Road opened up after a number of days of being closed early, due to grizzly bears being seen there for the first time since Grand Teton National Park’s inception. Many cried foul, but the park service stood its ground and kept it closed as long as grizzlies were present. With so many black bears seen every year on the road, why the sudden change in policy? Was it really worth closing off an entire road?

The park cites that "…when there is a conflict between conserving resources and values and providing for the enjoyment of them, conservation is to be predominant." My first reaction was to side with those that felt the park had gone too far, but once I got past the fact that I wasn’t getting photos of my favorite animal, I accepted the extra protection. I’m completely happy knowing that not only are grizzlies back there, but that they’re fully protected back there, unlike some other areas of the park where they frequently can, and do, cross paths with hunters.

Yesterday, with grizzly bears seeming to be out of the area, they opened the road up again and while fall is all but gone in most areas of Grand Teton National Park, visitors were delighted to see a bouquet of colors all along the entire formerly closed stretch of Moose-Wilson Road. Photographers were stopped all over the roadsides capturing the yellows, fluorescent oranges and bright greens on aspen trees as they intermingled with bold, burnt reds on the hawthorn bushes.

Later in the day though, Grizzly Bear #610 was spotted once again, thus prompting another closure of the road. For those that haven’t traveled the road before, it’s a very narrow and winding road lined with thick vegetation in areas where bears frequent as they feed on the hawthorn berries. One might wonder though, with so many black bears, why close it for grizzly bears? Black bears are much more docile than grizzlies. While you can get away with being in close proximity to a black bear (though of course, it’s not recommended at all), a grizzly bear is much more likely to let you know it doesn’t want you near it, especially if she has cubs. Add to that a number of locals that unfortunately speed through on their way to/from work, as well as a large percentage of people that don’t know the difference between a black and grizzly bear, and it’s a pretty solid recipe for disaster. With the animal still on the endangered species list, the park is out to do all it can to ensure those animals continue to thrive.

I had, at first, felt that the park had overstepped their boundaries in closing off the road, but in knowing that those grizzly bears are protected as well as they can be, it’s good to know that I’ll most likely be seeing them happy and healthy in the spring again.

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Regression in the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem

A black wolf shedding its winter coat near Bicuit Basin in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming (Mike Cavaroc)
Black wolf in Yellowstone National Park

The conservation movement essentially started with John Muir’s pen roughly 150 years ago. From there, it blossomed into an entire National Park Service that’s preserved small chunks of land scattered around the country, as well as worldwide presently. The movement itself has been gaining significant ground in recent decades, but still has a long way to go in overcoming what one would think would be the simplest of obstacles.

When the National Park Service was introduced, the borders for the national parks were set without taking wildlife into consideration. They were just meant to preserve pretty places for Americans to escape to. As more scientists and biologists began studying the wildlife around these new parks, they saw that more protection was needed. In Grand Teton National Park, predators were nonexistent at the time of its expansion, having been wiped out in prior generations, so the expanded borders really only accounted for the migrating bison and elk herds. Now that these predators are back in their rightful homes though, we need to take another step back and look at the landscape without boundaries, the same as an animal sees it. The entire Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem and beyond is all one place to an animal. It’s one house with a lot of different rooms. It doesn’t realize that 10 feet to its east, for example, in what looks like the same room, are completely different rules in whether or not it can continue to live. It’s all one ecosystem, and should be treated as such.

I wrote a blog post last week about the Grand Teton National Park elk hunt, and left off at the conclusion that despite great strides by the park service in reestablishing wolves and grizzly bears, that more protection is needed to allow this fragile region to bring itself back into balance. The point was made that the elk hunt originated because there weren’t any natural predators feeding on elk, and as a result, the population ran out of control. With the reintroduction and growth of predator species however, the elk hunt is becoming less required to maintain the elk population. The only problem is that protection of wolves now solely applies to within Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Park boundaries. Thus the population of them is currently at a stagnant and much less than ideal number, and yet being opened up to hunting regardless.

Once you step out of the national park boundaries, you have ignorantly corrupted politicians that simply don’t understand the value of such an important ecosystem right in their own home, nor the enormous benefits of having wolves on the landscape. They’re making the argument that the main concern is ranchers whose valuable livestock is at risk, yet only a fraction of them, both ranchers and politicians, are doing anything to implement proven, effective methods for protecting those stocks against predators.

Governor Matt Mead, proving he has no understanding of the value of his own home state, even went so far as to say "We have lost significant numbers of elk and moose, and we have not had a say in the management of an animal inside Wyoming." …Which is exactly why this ecosystem was doing so well in reestablishing its original balance! The animals he cites were also overpopulated, hence the entire reason there are elk hunts all over the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem to begin with! This is a clear-as-day example of politicians doing what’s best for the short-sighted payoffs of financial responsibility, and not the long-term wealth that conservation has proven to provide.

Those who are most resistant to allowing wolves and grizzly bears to roam the landscape freely, foster a very old school mentality that is the exact same thinking that threw the entire balance of the ecosystem out of whack to begin with. It’s an incredibly narrow-minded point of view that is causing more destruction to such a frail and beautiful place with each day that passes. These blinded bureaucrats are showing no concern for their own home as we slowly regress and wipe out decades of research, simply because ranchers refuse to adapt.

There is a silver lining though. This generation has a historic opportunity to turn this all around and push the balance back into the right direction once and for all. We are presently at a significantly monumental point in time where we have the chance to reestablish not just a species, but an entire ecosystem to its original state. If you think National Parks bring in tourism dollars, what about a National Ecosystem? Or even better, how does an International Ecosystem sound? Just imagine endless miles of hiking trails and remote and pristine wilderness for hundreds of miles, flourishing just as it had before European settlers arrived. Something of that magnitude would dwarf profits from all the elk hunts combined! We’re on the cusp of one of the greatest accomplishments in conservation history, but as we’re currently seeing, it’s not going to go anywhere as long as we’re still putting politicians into office with a 19th century mindset.

I’m not out to start a war with ranchers. I only ask that they try to understand that we are in the predators’ homes that were violently stripped away from them. Wolves and grizzly bears have more right to be here than we do, but with a few small and slight adjustments, there’s absolutely no reason we can’t thrive together and create a huge catalyst to this economy of this entire region and more.

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